Watson & Wolfe
Luxury handmade pieces for the ethically and environmentally conscious
Vegan Wallet & Accessories
Men’s Vegan Wallets & Belts
Our knowledge of fine craftsmanship and superior quality, next generation materials is embodied in every item in the collection. From the handstitched detail which is added to all our belts, to the beautifully turned and stitched edges of the trifold wallet. Handmade in soft and supple corn leather the trifold wallet perfectly illustrates how innovative materials can achieve maximum storage, without bulk. The result is a lightweight, compact, and slim wallet which you can carry in any pocket.
About Helen
From passion came inspiration
Helen began her career at Aspinal of London where she developed a passion for leather goods. In 2017 whilst juggling motherhood she decided to start a men’s accessories brand from her home in Surrey. A few months later, the world as she knew it changed forever, and she embarked on a radical change of direction.
Discovery
If something isn’t right, change it.
Possessing a wealth of experience in the luxury industry, Helen Farr-Leander had originally intended to create a leather goods brand of her own. However, the research she undertook as she looked to set up her new business led to a series of dramatic changes of direction for her, both personally and in terms of the company she wanted to create. Here, she tells us what happened:
Tell us about your career prior to Watson & Wolfe…
I spent ten years in multi-channel retail operations for the luxury leather goods brand, Aspinal of London. I was employed in the early stages of the business and I was pivotal in its growth to a £10M major luxury brand. It gave me a unique understanding of business operations and I have great respect for the work it takes to create and drive a successful, luxury company. I then spent a further four years working in home interiors and men’s fashion.
A lot of people still believe that cow leather represents luxury. What would you say to people who think that vegan leather isn’t as good quality as traditional leather?
Luxury is defined as something which is inessential, desirable or expensive. Luxury is not a material – it encapsulates design, craftsmanship, quality of materials, respect for people and social responsibility. Would a leather wallet on a market stall produced in a sweatshop be perceived as Luxury, simply because it is made from animal leather? Vegan leather is engineered but that doesn’t make it less desirable or less expensive. It depends entirely on how it is used, how it is crafted and how the final product looks as to whether it’s ‘Luxury’.
Luxury is being redefined. Soon, it will no longer promote waste, pollution, cruelty, and high levels of CO2 in the supply chain – it will embrace sustainability, organic materials, recycling and the circular economy.
Developing the brand
A new direction requires a new vision.
Having changed to a vegan lifestyle and deciding on the new direction and ethos of her brand, Helen immersed herself in research, testing and finding ways to make Watson & Wolfe as sustainable as possible, whilst refusing to be swayed to those who doubted her ambitions. She tells us more:
Which steps did you take to make Watson & Wolfe a sustainable, eco brand? There must have been an enormous amount to source, research and discover?
We started out by testing a huge number of materials, at the time, there were fewer option than there is now. We finally found the perfect fabric for our initial purposes in Italy – a beautifully soft, smooth and lightly grained fabric, which looked and felt just like real leather. What is more, it was 30% more sustainable than other vegan leathers, because the base of the material is made from non-food grade corn, all obtained from a renewable source.
It could be used in the same way as leather too, folded, stitched and embossed. All the qualities we were searching for. In the end we fixed on the rPET fabric for our linings, made entirely from recycled plastic bottles, from a company in Taiwan, which had the cleanest production process and produced the highest quality product.
We chose our suppliers carefully because we wanted them to care as much as we do about the impact their businesses have on the planet. All our raw material factories harness green energy and have efficient systems for solvent and air exhaust. The effect on the surrounding environment is the lowest it could feasibly be.
We wanted to produce products which will last, so we set out to find small, artisanal factories who could deliver on highest quality craftsmanship, who have ethical working conditions, a fair-trade policy and who valued their staff. We fixed on working with a small group of factories in Turkey and Portugal, who have a long history of working with luxury leather brands. Everything is handmade with traditional leather working techniques by experienced people and our factories are incredibly supportive of our project and understand our objectives too, which is paramount for us.
What about factors such as offsetting your carbon footprint, as you were making the products overseas and shipping internationally?
Our environmental footprint is a primary consideration and we take full responsibility for the impact it has. This is why we are working with One Tree Planted, to offset a proportion of the carbon we generate. As a reforestation partner, they help to plant trees in the ground in different areas of the world, including North America, Latin America, Asia, and Africa. For every order we receive, we donate a tree and are choosing to donate trees to planting projects in The Amazon and Australia, where the needs for reforestation are vital.
What sort of reaction did you get initially when launching the brand?
Nobody had an objection to me designing and making luxury animal leather wallets. But when I decided to stop using leather and began showing them vegan and sustainable materials, everyone had something to say about it! I had obviously gone mad and was making radical decisions! I was immediately hit with a lot of scepticism. Friends and family said, ‘There isn’t a demand’, ‘Maybe vegan men don’t want that?’, ‘Maybe the market is too small’.
But I was not going to be deterred, and I’m so glad that I wasn’t because the reaction of the public, our customers, the press, stockists and the industry wide validation we have received tells a different story altogether. Receiving amazing feedback from customers all over the world and winning the PETA ‘Best Vegan Accessories’ award in their annual Men’s Fashion Awards in our first year of trading was the only encouragement I need. It was fantastic!
Why did you decide to launch products for women?
This, or a more unisex focus, was always on the cards, but it was brought forward due to demand and continual requests from our customers. We kept getting asked by women buying for their partners and from customers and fans of the brand at shows and events. We’ve launched with a small range initially of cross-body and tote bags, again using classic colours and timeless styles to create slow fashion accessories that will not date and which are robust and affordable. The initial reaction has been fantastic and the cherry on the top has been receiving another award, this time by Marie Claire magazine, with a ‘Highly Commended’ for Best Sustainable Accessory Brand 2021.
What is next for Watson & Wolfe?
We are always busy with several projects in the mix at one time. Over the next 12 months we want more people to be able to buy us locally, so we are doing a lot of work with independent retailers to get Watson & Wolfe on shelves in store.
We are constantly working to reduce our carbon footprint by streamlining our supply chain and this year we hope to make big strides here. By building relationships with suppliers closer to where we manufacture, our raw materials have less distance to travel. Moving things by road a short distance is far better than flying materials halfway around the world. But it is important that our quality is not compromised to achieve this. Providing a quality product is first and foremost, so we are working with producers to deliver the same quality as we get now.
B-Corp certification is on our radar too. Of course, there is also much more, including new products, new colours and new materials which we would love to introduce too. It is impossible to do everything I want to do, so I must be realistic about what we can achieve this year.
How do you like to relax?
I’m an active person and I enjoy getting out into nature. I love yoga and road cycling, so I try to get at least 30-40k in saddle each week. I’ve recently introduced my children to the delights of camping – they have really taken to life under canvas and it’s great to see them playing in the woods and away from technology and devices! I also enjoy hiking and doing the crossword – something that I have enjoyed since childhood and a passion that was passed on by my late father.
Sustainability
Realising the problem
During the research and development phase for Watson & Wolfe in early 2017, our founder Helen, learned of the environmental damage being caused by the fashion and leather industries.
The impact of these industries on our planet is hidden, so consumers continue to over-consume without thought, as the cycle of fast-fashion, overproduction and waste continues to spiral out of control.
Having worked in the leather goods industry for 10 years, it was this insight that changed the course of Watson & Wolfe and created the compassionate and planet conscious business it is today.
You can read and learn more about Helen’s personal journey here.
Impact of the leather industry
A common misconception is that cow leather is a natural, organic material and therefore better for the environment. In fact, the impact of leather on our planet has been known for a long time and was highlighted in the 2017 Pulse of Fashion Industry Report. It determined that of all materials used for fashion, animal fibres occupy four of the top five least environmentally friendly, with cow leather being the most damaging.
In Kanpur, India – the self-proclaimed ”Leather City of the World” which in 2003, housed more than 10,000 tanneries was dumping more than 22 tons of effluence into the Ganges River, every day.
Our Values
We care about sustainability
Our focus on being a responsible brand runs far deeper than our materials. We will only source from suppliers who are as eco conscious as we are.
Efficiency in our supply chain is also important. We are constantly looking to develop materials and find raw materials close to our factories to reduce transportation and we offset the impact of our business by replanting trees.
We are ethical
We are committed to ensuring that our products are manufactured under safe, fair and humane working conditions.
The process of making leather requires a combination of toxic chemicals, that cause long-term health issues to workers and there is evidence that the industry employs children.
We only develop relationships with suppliers who share our ethical standards.
Functionality and durability
The strength and endurance of the wolf inspires all our designs. As well as helping you look good and feel great, Watson & Wolfe is conscious of the cross-functional lifestyles you lead as a professional, partner, friend, adventurer and sportsman. We believe our accessories should be practical, durable and versatile, so that you feel organised and in control wherever life takes you.
We adopt a classic, slow fashion approach to design, keeping in mind how each piece will be used. We want you to enjoy our items and use them every day, so we design and craft every piece to ensure longevity and value for money.
We are Vegan
We believe the consumer market must evolve to be fully sustainable with cruelty-free supply and manufacturing, better working conditions for people and less reliance on our planet’s resources.
The materials and processed we use at Watson & Wolfe are vegan and we are committed to ensuring that all our materials are ethically sourced with no involvement in animal cruelty.
No leather, no fur, no down, no wool. Ever.
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